Unlike the Mediterraneans and Scandinavians who like their appetizer
courses to consist of little bits of many things (hors d’oeuvre variés, anti-
pasto, the Greek, Turkish and Arabic meze, and smòrgasbord), the Ger-
mans prefer to concentrate on one single dish for their Vorspeise—
literally, “before food.” Usually, it is a relatively expensive food item,
somethìng that will add a luxurious accent to the meal that follows, and
it always has a piquant flavor that will whet the appetite. Vorspeise
specialties are so delicious and so attractively arranged and garnished,
that it is easy to get carried away and eat too much of this first course.
Remember that portions should be large enough to take the edge off rav-
enous appetites, but small enough to leave room for the rest of the meal.
Most of the foods served as Vorspeisen double as Zwischengerichte—
between-meal dishes that are midmorning second breakfasts, afternoon
pickups or even late suppers.
The list of Vorspeisen and Zwischengerichte is a long one, and includes
an enormous variety of smoked, canned and fresh fish and shellfish,
meats, sliced or in salads, stuffed eggs and cheese dishes and vegetable
salads. Smoked salmon and caviar, snails done in the manner of Bur-
gundy, and Strasbourg goose-liver paté are as populär in Germany as
they are in the rest of Europe, and when a German wants to splurge on
an elegant all-out dinner, chances are he will begin by ordering Lobster
Mayonnaise. In Germany this will be a boiled, chilled, firm and flavorful
lobster from the waters around Helgoland, the island off the coast of
Hamburg famous for these crustaceans. The lobster will be split, its
meat loosened and possibly cut, and replaced in the shell. It will be
arranged on a bed of crisp green lettuce and served with a side dish of
very rich mayonnaise, bread or toast and butter and a glass of dry white
wine. Oysters are another specialty of Hamburg, where they are served
in small restaurants called Austernstuben, along with slices of tangy
yellow Cheshire cheese and a glass of dry red wine — a most unusual and
delightful appetizer or between-meal snack.
In addition to the Vorspeisen that are popular all over Germany, there
are a number of regional favorites based on local specialties. Most
Germans like herring, but what is a mild preference in Bavaria becomes
a full-scale passion in Schleswig-Holstein, where the North Sea and the
Baltic provide a superb variety of fresh herring close at hand. Cured
raw hams and bacon, such as those of Westphalia and the Black Forest,
are favored on their home grounds. In Bavaria, dozens of types of
wursts are sliced up as appetizers, and the people of Pomerania favor
a first course of their greatest local delicacy, smoked breast of goose.
Since only a small amount of food is needed for Vorspeisen, and
because most of them take a great deal of time to prepare, the busy
Hausfrau relies on her delicatessen for this course for ordinary family
dinners. But you can be sure she has her own set of recipes for all of
the popular appetizers and prefers that they be zu Hause gemacht (home-
made) for special occasions. Although there are few delicatessens in
this country that can compare with the fantasic Originals existing in
Germany, you should be able to find a fairly good one in any German
neighborhood, or in an eastern European or Jewish section, where
similar shops are known as “appetizer stores.” These offer the full
range of Vorspeise items, except for fresh fish and shellfish and some
of the more unusual wursts that are carried only by specialty butchers.
Beautiful garnishes are important to Vorspeise platters. Slices of
tomatoes, olives, capera, chopped onion or thin onion rings, chives, let-
tuce, sprigs of parsley and dill, radish roses, carrot curls, strips of green
pepper and pimento, sections of mandarin oranges, bits of apple or pear,
currant jam or Preiselbeeren, and lemon slices scored around the edges
or cut in half and then twisted into butterfly shapes — these are some of
the standard frills.
Many German appetizers are traditionally served with some special
condiment, a particular bread, or a specific drink, and I have indicated
the authentic accompaniments when appropriate.

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